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Suhring, Bangkok: Food that hugs you

When I think of German food, enormous portions of red meat and potatoes come to my mind. I am not big on steak but I do like Black Forest ham and Bratwursts. I also like the chewy Landjaeger sausages, occasionally. When on Chef Gaggan’s behest we got a booking at a restaurant called Suhring in Bangkok, to be honest I was unsure. But the hook he played was that he was a partner, mentor, friend of the place and we were sold right there.

And so the following evening we arrived at another pretty Bangkok neighborhood, at another beautifully lit up restaurant. Chefs and twin brothers Thomas and Mathias Suhring have worked for a long time in Bangkok before setting up their own restaurant and named it simply.. Suhring. The place feels warm and homely. The cuisine they serve has roots in German food but they present it in a very attractive way to the next gen. We opted for the 12 course menu.

We were warmly welcomed with glasses of sparkling wine.

 

The first course was this beautiful plate. Soft, chewy, warm bagels served with “obatzda” a traditional German mix of butter and cheese. This one was infused with the flavor of caramelized onions. On the side were these two miniature beer mugs with non alcoholic beer. They even had froth. So damn cute! I felt like I was attending a party inside a doll’s house 🙂

Just highlighting the size of these cuties. Cheers!

 

Next up: “Oyster & Beer”. Essentially fresh oysters served with crispy onions and beer vinegar. Delicate and balanced.

 

“Busumer Krabben” & Herring: cured herring wrapped outside discs made of shrimps topped with seasonal edible flowers. Absolutely beautiful looking and delicious.

 

Perfectly grilled pork knuckle sandwich. The kind I can go on eating all evening.

 

This is what pairing in heaven is all about. A disc of duck liver pate on a crisp toast on top of a fruity Riesling. Beautiful taste, amazing presentation. Certainly a highlight of our meal.

 

“Hokkaido Scallop”: with pumpkin, love apple and sorrel. This combination totally works. The acidity and crunch of the love apples were perfect with the cured scallops.

 

Potato bird’s nest with sour cream infused with seasonal herbs. Very fresh on the tongue.

 

Rolled and toasted sandwiches with cured ham and quail egg. Crispy on the outside and melt-in-your-mouth indulgent inside.

 

Then came THIS assortment. German sourdough & whole grain breads. Cultured Butter. Horseradish. Pate of Leberwurst (liver sausages). Air dried beef. Thinly sliced ham. Smoked halibut. Oh. My. God.

When I complimented Chef Mathias about the nutty dense rye bread, he was kind enough to fetch a small pot of sourdough starter and show it to me.

Here let me take a moment to show you this beautiful spread in the foreground. It is made with onions and pork lard and was absolutely delicious with the warm rustic bread.

 

Nova Scotia lobster with brown butter, salsify and apple. The lobster was sweet and all other elements on the plate brought out the best in it.

 

Spatzle: hand cut pasta that is native to Germany. In a cheesy emulsion with crispy onions. We got generous shavings of black truffle as a prize for having perfect manners 🙂

 

For the main, A had a Hungarian duck breast that was “dry aged for a week on the bone” before cooking. It was served on a bed of wilted spinach, quail egg and chervil root. He got another shower of fragrant truffles.

 

I had this pan seared sea bass with chives, capers in a Riesling sauce. Sea bass is my favorite fishy indulgence. No complaints!

 

I have to take a moment and breathe here. THIS gin and tonic ice cream at Suhring is the best dessert I have had in ages. The ice cream is made of tart buttermilk flavored with tonic water and topped with grated gin-infused cucumber that brought an unusual crunchy dimension to it. I am so inspired. I want to try making this at home.

 

And we are not done yet! The final dessert on the menu. On my plate is a rice pudding with mandarin orange three ways – fresh, ice cream and jelly.

 

Compliments to Chef Mathias at the end of the meal. Excellent food. Excellent ambience. Excellent service.

At the end of the dinner I felt happy & satisfied. The food at this restaurant just HUGS you. The brothers learnt cooking at their grandmother’s farm in Germany as kids. That warm camaraderie resonates in their food. It is priceless.

If you are in Bangkok please book a seat. I won’t be surprised if they feature in the next Top 50 list of restaurants soon!

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